I’ve been cleaning antique tools for over twenty-five years. When I was fourteen years old my Grandpa gave me a Stanley No 77 dowel machine that took square stock and turned it into dowels. Since that day, I was hooked on old tools. There was something about taking an old neglected tool that was just sitting around collecting dust and bringing it back to life that appealed to me.
I’ve cleaned hundreds if not thousands of tools over the years. When removing all the dirt and rust from an old tool, the final step is to protect it with a penetrating oil so it doesn’t rust again. For years I used Kramer’s Antique Improver and loved the way it protected the wood and metal of the tool giving it a nice sheen. The only problem I had with the oil was the price. At $20.00 for a 8 oz bottle, the stuff wasn’t exactly cheap, but it worked so well I kept using it even though my wife couldn’t stand the smell of the stuff.
Since my wife was no fan of the smell when I used Kramer’s Antique Improver, it got me wondering if I could make something that worked as well for pennies on the dollar. I didn’t want to reproduce Kramer’s exactly because John Kramer uses turpentine and solvents to make his oil. I wanted something simple that I could whip up in a jiffy using only natural products.
I started with melting beeswax. I bought a small 100% beeswax candle and cut a small 1/4″ slab off of it and melt it in the pot. You can always buy granule beeswax at a woodworkers store if you can’t find a 100% beeswax candle.
Once the wax has melted, I add equal parts of orange oil and mineral oil to pot and cook them for one minute. They sell mineral oil at a woodworking supply stores as butcher block oil however, I found mineral oil at the pharmacy for a whole lot less.
Once the oils have cooked in the pot for a minute I pour it in a container. As you can see, my container is nothing more than a Sweet Leaf Ice Tea drink I bought one day.
Using a paper towel, I rub the oil all over tool penetrating it in every spot. You can see the difference of the tool with just one coat of the oil. I usually coat the tool three or four times letting the oil penetrate the entire surface.
The oil works on wood just well as metal. In fact, I coat all my molding planes with the oil. The great thing about my oil is that it’s completely natural, there is no odor and it lasts just as long as Kramer’s. Not to mention that it’s dirt cheap to make.
7 thoughts on “Antique Tool Improver”
First, Thank you for your blog and Ebay store, I am a fan of both.
I restore old tools for personal use and have been looking for something that helps both metal and wood, thanks again. One question on restoring wooden planes though. Do you strip off the original finish or just oil up what’s left? My tongue and groove planes appriciate any help you can give.
When I clean wooden molding planes I usually only rub it down with 00 and 0000 steel wool to get rid of the dirt and grime. Then I add my improver oil on them. I wrote a blog a few months ago about restoring a molding plane. http://wp.me/p1gfza-dp
Thank you very much.
When I tried this I got beeswax settling to the bottom of my jar. Did you use equal parts od all 3 or just the orange oil and mineral oil? Or do I need to heat it up to use it?
I only used about a 1/4 ounce of beeswax. I melt it and then add it to the jar with the orange oil and mineral oil. Heating the oil helps when applying it, but it isn’t necessary. I also shake the jar each time before I use it so the wax mixes with the oil.
I had a hard time finding the orange oil but did find it. I ended up making a batch of your improver and love it. It works great, thank you!
I usually find orange oil in antique stores. Once you get the ratio right, the stuff works wonders. If I had a brain I would bottle it up and sell it.